The Morning After and a little Surf Practice

Then next morning the weather has turned for the worst. So we decided to stay on the Opito bay and head west. The storm kicks up some impressive swells and we get a chance to play in some big water. Greg and I are having a blast. Greg is perfectly at home in the large water but Carl is a little hesitant. Auckland doesn’t get much big water so the locals don’t get much exposure. Graeme notices this and decides that we won’t go further west as the coast line is harsher. So we go to the end of the bay where the waves are a little smaller to land.
Graeme goes in with no problem then Greg. I am waiting for Freya and Carl. Both are hanging back. I figure that I will let them go in then if they get in trouble I will be able to swoop in and help out if needed. I wait and wait and still no movement. I signal to Carl to go in but he doesn’t understand. Next thing I know I hear a really big wave behind me and after a quick glance I figure the best thing to do is just surf that bad boy in.
So a couple of quick strokes and the GWS is in the face screaming toward the beach. It is quite a choir to keep the boat from broaching and I am having a great ride when I notice that Freya is right in my line. The boat is so long that I can’t make it turn and the ride is so fine that I don’t want to give it up. As I draw closer I realize that I will just miss Freya on the right and with the speed I’m carrying I will fly right past her. Well when the wave brings me up Freya’s boat the Hexy Sexy just takes off. The HS is a small volume Greenland boat designed for rolling. It is a perfect size for surfing and when that sweet wave comes along it just took off.
The next thing I know we are surfing side by side inches apart. In fact her boat has cut across my bow and is sitting on my deck. At this point Freya’s rolls off to the left and I roll off to the right. I use the motion of the ocean to perform a combat roll and I come right back up, sans hat and expensive sunglasses. I look back over my shoulder for Freya and see her hull up. After waiting a few moments I see her eventually roll up. Now I am a little surprised that I beat her up since she is a champion kayak roller and all but I guess that’s the difference between a demo in flat water and rolling in combat! Needless to say Freya is not amused. I find my hat but not my sunglasses.
Greg and Graeme have a good laugh and note the fact that I beat Freya up! Of course Freya did execute a hand roll so I guess I’m not that cool! I catch the next wave into the beach and Freya and Carl make the beach were we all make the call to head back. Freya and Greg decide to go out and visit some islands and I go back to the batch with Graeme and Carl to give them a little private time.